From research on your site, I believe I need to apply, It will very much depend on the colour that you are hoping to achieve, but as a starting point I can recommend the Fiddes Hard Wax Oil Tints. I believe it has not been applied with any varnishes or oils before. Mahagony. It’s no surprise really, when there are so many to choose from: Teak oil, Tung oil, Danish oil, Oak furniture oil and many more, some of which are specifically designed for certain types of wood. Our email address is wood@finishes.direct. Hi, We would expect the Varnish to delaminate when applied over an oil, this means it could potentially peel off the surface. As long as there are no instructions from the manufacturers that state you should not use oils, then a Danish Oil would be an ideal product to use on you doors. Hi.. firstly may I say what a fabulously informative site this is. Of the two products the Fiddes Hard Wax Oil can be the easiest to maintain. If you are able to get all the furniture back to bare wood then a good option will be the Garden Furniture Oil from Barrettine. Thank you for getting in touch with your enquiry. How would you recommend I remove the marks and maintain the doors? If you have any other questions please let me know – Sam, Hi I have just been given an old French parquet dining table. It’s used to build up layers on the surface of the wood to create a plastic-like coating that gives a hard wearing, protective finish or seal to floors and other wooden surfaces. Or finger prints can mark the wood also. Our flooring expert thinks that it will offer some protection but that there is a good chance that you would not be able to put anything else on top at a later date. Can you get in touch via our contact us page, with details of how you applied the varnish and if you denibbed between coats and what with ? I don’t mind a grey finish but am thinking of using pure tung oil as protection. For an Oil to use you could have a look at the Osmo Polyx Oil. Also, we recently purchased another bench and small side table to add to the set and they are totally unfinished. I’d like to keep the neutral colour and don’t mind a soft sheen but don’t want a high gloss finish. Multiple coatings can be applied until the wood is unable to absorb any more. It is not as easy to repair an varnished surface as it is and oiled one, and it may not be completely invisible but have a read of this blog and you can decide from there. I hope that helps and if you have any further questions please do not hesitate to get in touch. Once well prepared, a Hard Wax Oil can be applied and for Sapele I would recommend the Osmo Wood Wax Finish Extra Thin this is designed for use on hardwoods that are less willing to absorb oils and will give a subtle satin finish. Presumably as Teak Oil is colourless I shouldn’t be seeing a colour coming off the wood, should I? There is a product that is designed to counteract this darkening however your wood may be too dark or red to take it. Danish Oil is suitable for flooring but will require a fresh coat around every 6 months to keep up appearance and protection. If the flooring is bare wood then its worth giving it a good clean to ensure it is dirt and grease free, and then you could consider a couple of coats of Osmo Polyx Oil this product comes in a number of sheen levels and is perfect for high traffic areas and is dirt and water resistant. Many thanks for your advice! It originally had some varnish or varathane(?) I’m looking to finish with an oil or other finish to keep the natural reddish mahogany color tint. If you need to remove the original product you should be able to do this with White Spirits. Many thanks for your help. Please can you help me as I am so disappointed with the result. Hi Sam, thanls for the reply. For bare wood, I recommend a Decking Oil as a good option, it will soak into the surface of the wood and will be easy to maintain and repair over time. Can you provide recommendations. Simply apply a fresh coat, to clean dry wood, when you feel the wood needs it, annually or bi annually. You can order the Osmo Extra Thin via our website or over the phone, just give us a call. Natural Oils like Danish are an option and can be topped up regularly when further protection is needed, they do not dry hard however and if you are leaning arms on the desk to work for long periods may find the oil, comes away. I’m now using teak oil to get it back to that original redish/golden colour, but it’s staining so light (almost like a pine). My husband loves the honey color of oiled teak – so no grey weathering. I am so happy I stumbled upon your website today. What is wipe on poly oil and where do I get it? The liquid seems to have eaten through the finish on the table and caused a ring to appear underneath where the bottle was placed (my bad!). My apologies for the delay in getting back to you. I was keen to use a hard wax oil but the customer wanted to use Danish oil, as he believed that was what had been used before. What would you recommend? Can you tell me if we are talking about internal cladding or external please ? Tung Oil is the oil that will change the wood the least. Just want to preserve as much of the natural colour as possible. It’s a fast acting stripper that makes the treatment bubble up for scrapping off with a Mako Filler Knife. Decking paint sits on the surface of the wood and helps keep moisture out. I hope that helps and if you have any other questions please let me know – Sam. It has been neglected, and I just finished using commercial furniture polish on it to at least perk it up a little…I now want to do a better, more long lasting oil or polish to it. I hope that helps and if you have any questions at all please do not hesitate to get in touch. Danish oil makes an excellent wood floor oil, but modern proprietary products are sometimes easier to work with. Hi Sam. If you like the silvering effect of the Sun then the Teak Oil requires less coats but has a longer drying time and the Danish Oil has a shorter drying time but needs more coats. This oil soaks in to the surface of the wood and gives great durability and protection to the wood. It is recessed about 5′ from the front of the house, so it does not get direct sun or rain. By doing this you will get a more consistent and even finish. I have some sanded pine floors which I have stained and now want to oil. Unlike the smaller bottle this one states ‘Not recommended for use on oak’. it there anything i can use as a protective layer over the top that will keep the look? 3. Ok my conundrum is that I have recently started studying furniture and have acquired a load of air dried spalted beech. We have original 1960s teak staircases which we are planning to restore. We have internal doors, which I waxed 3 or 4 years ago, but which are now showing grubby / greasy finger marks. I want a very natural look, like its not treated at all if possible. We’d like a satin finish at best, but it must stand up to the wear and tear of spillages etc as it’s a kitchen table. Robin. The Osmo Polyx Oil is a hard wax oil made from all natural products. I’ve been told that there is not much to be able to do to fix laminate but I was wondering if the OSMO clear matte top oil would help dull the overall surface down? A test area should be done, first to ensure that there are no compatibility issues with the current treatment, and secondly to check that the wood is not saturated and will accept more. For more advice you could give us a call on 01303 213838 and one of our advisers will be happy to help. There are a number of products you can consider and so if you can give me a little more information that would be great. I would also recommend a Preservative before the oil application to give the wood the best protection against the elements. This will help to keep the wood flexible and nourished through the varying temperature and humidity changes. It weathered in the desert (lots of sun & low humidity) so the surface in some places is roughened and it was given entirely too much attention by neighborhood cats. Staining. I wish to apply an oil to protect it, but would like some suggestions first, please? A great wood oil that can be used on most types of wooden furniture is clear Holzol Furniture Oil, or if additional colour of a stain is required, we recommend Holzol Furniture Oil Tints. Hello what a great site! I spent 4 days using a rag rubbing in the oil, moving furniture all around the house, very tiring. I am making a large round (4ft dia.) Always try a test area first. Wax is more often than not the recommended product for beams, as it is a natural finish that leaves the wood unchanged. The reason that Barrettine do not advise use on Oak is to do with the Tannins in oak when mixed with some oils, can cause blackening of the wood. As far as I can tell it is unfinished. If you email me and I can make some suggestions. We are trying to decide what to do and have had conflicting advice. My husband was oiling our oak sideboard and oak futon frame with the linseed oil about a month ago. I do not want a high gloss finish, a light sheen would be better, bearing in mind the ‘traffic’ over the threshold what would you suggest I hope that helps and if you have any other questions please do not hesitate to get in touch. Apply Danish and Teak oil with a soft brush or cloth, being careful not to use too much at a time or it won’t sink in. The twins work with wood at Tony's construction site. If you need any further advice please let me know – Sam. Halogen Floodlights. We have a solid oiled oak ‘engineered'(?) Never, ever leave an oily cloth rolled up. It will depend on the type of finish you are looking for, if the chair is for indoor or outdoor use. Over time the varnish has started flaming off and the wood is fading below it, would love to get rid of the varnish and bring out the natural colours in the wood, not sure how to do either? Have you tried speaking to anyone at Wren or any other Laminate suppliers as they may have repair kits that would suit your needs. Hi Sam, It will darken the wood slightly and the best way to get an idea of how much is by wiping a damp cloth across the bare wood. Danish Oil will still protect to a good level but you inevitably need more coats and may need to do maintenance more often, and generally speaking the more coats of the Danish that you apply the glossier it will become. Paula. I have recently purchased a house with hardwood windows that are 40years old It can only be applied to bare wood and require two thin coats. This would not work on a dark wood though as you may see the white. Because most modern varnishes are water-based, they are generally not compatible with oiled surfaces. It may be that a teak oil will darken slightly more than a decking oil for example but only test areas will show truly how much. If the furniture has been oiled, you will be able to re-oil or use a good quality liquid Beeswax polish to feed the wood and prevent it from drying out. I’ve recently bought some second hand garden furniture made from roble wood. There is a lot of figure in the grain (lacewood) as well as some lovely colour differentiation between the pinkish heart wood and the lighter, sap wood which makes up around 2/3 of the width. I’ve inherited a kitchen dining table and chairs from my grandparents which they’ve lovingly (thinly) varnished over the years. Which is the Best Wood Oil for Wooden Worktops. I’ve just sanded it back as it was wearing in places and so I have a smooth surface again but some areas are clearly more like the original unprotected wood with others clearly still having the Speedstone protection on. I’m wondering if you can recommend a wood oil or finish that can stand up to the high moisture and heat? Simply reapply a fresh coat when you feel the wood needs it. These products need to be applied thinly and just 2 coats are required. It will leave the wood looking and feeling very natural and it is likely that you will only need a small tin. If the oil remains unmoved you are likely to have a varnished finish and if the oil soaks in or moves then there is a good chance that it is finished with an oil. I would not advise Olive Oil for a decking treatment, it will not be durable enough and is unlikely to last very long. Always try a test area first. You may also want to double check any paper work that comes with the doors, manufacturers often recommend against oils or stains on veneered finishes as they believe there is a risk to the adhesive under the veneer. Both Varnish and Hard Wax Oil will protect the surface from heat and liquid when applied correctly. To avoid the milky finish there is the 420 clear, this one will darken the wood however.